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Après l'averse (After an evening shower)

From my old studio.  Marzahn has real face of  Berlin.

Year : 24 Aug 2018 Marzahn-Berlin Germany

Length : 1min 53sec

Format : 4k prores 422 HQ

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Episode

English:
A friend of mine had rented a studio in Marzahn, and before moving out, he suggested that I rent it. It was my first time visiting Marzahn, and I was overwhelmed by the numerous apartment complexes. They were built in 1977 as part of an East German plan. The studio was also located in one of these standard apartment buildings, known as Plattenbau. There was nothing around, no sign of people, and vacant lots and ruins were scattered here and there.

The studio was meant for musicians. From outside, one could hear the sound of a piano, the loud noise of drums, and some kind of electronic techno music.

Nearby, there was probably the largest job center in Berlin, a public employment agency. I wondered if the unemployment rate was proportional to its size.

Countless apartment complexes, a huge public employment agency, and wide roads. It felt like I had time-traveled to East Germany. In fact, not much seemed to have changed since that era.

At one point, I was convinced that this building might have been a Stasi building. The Stasi was the ministry that oversaw the secret police and intelligence agency of the German Democratic Republic. Its official name was the Ministry for State Security.

I thought about using the elevator to transport wood and various other materials to demolish the wall that Xavier had built, but I realized it might be too small. However, when I consulted the building manager, I discovered that there was a hidden door behind the mirror in the elevator. When opened, it made the elevator much more spacious. There was even a window at the top to look inside the elevator.

I was convinced that this was a hiding place for spies.

After 1989 (when the Berlin Wall fell and Germany was reunified), the Marzahn district became known as a synonym for neo-Nazis and their activities, and "foreigners were even warned not to visit there." However, in reality, there were many Asian and Russian foreigners, and people were surprisingly kind. Of course, if you went deeper into the apartment complexes, there was an atmosphere that suggested you shouldn't be there. The faces of the people there were clearly different from those of the Germans in the city center. Pale or completely white, men and women covered in large, hard tattoos silently pushed baby strollers and boarded the tram.

Also, having grown up in a new residential area in Yokohama, I felt a sense of nostalgia.

When I was in elementary school, there were times when I wanted to skip school. On my way to school by subway, I sometimes had an irresistible urge to go to the last stop. I remembered the excitement I felt when I visited Takashimadaira, the last stop on the Teito Rapid Transit Authority subway line. Takashimadaira is also called a land-locked island. It's a series of huge apartment complexes from the Showa era. I also remember going to Keio-Tamacentar Station. I realized that I had always liked terminal stations and dead ends.

This place embodies the concept of "from the cradle to the grave" in a residential version.

I thought that among the people born and raised here, there might be some who never leave this place in their entire lives, rarely go to the center of Berlin, and end their lives here.

I was convinced that for me, the true face of Berlin was indeed Marzahn.

エピソード

日本語:
・・・・・
友人がMarzahnにスタジオを借りていたのだが、そこから引き払う前に、僕に借りてみないかと提案してきた。
Marzahnあたりは初めてきたが、ただただ圧倒される団地の数々。1977年に東ドイツの計画で建設されたのだ。スタジオもそのいわゆるスタンダードな団地Plattenbauプラッテンバウ方式で建てられた建物だ。周りには何もない、ひと気も全くない、空き地や廃墟が所々に放ってある。
そのスタジオはミュージシャンのためのスタジオなのだ。外からはピアノの音色、爆音のドラムの音、テクノか何かのエレクトロニックが鳴り響く。
近くには恐らくベルリンでも最大のjobcenterがある。いわゆる公共職業安定所だ。失業率と大きさが比例してるのだろうか。
無数の団地、巨大な公共職業安定所、広い道路。東ドイツにタイムスリップした感覚だ。と言うか、あの時代からほとんど変化はないのだろう。
ある時この建物はもしかしたらシュタージの建物ではなかったかと確信したことがあった。シュタージとは、ドイツ民主共和国の秘密警察・諜報機関を統括する省庁である。正式名称は国家保安省。
xavierが作った壁を取り壊すために木材や色々なものをエレベーターで運びおろそうかと思ったが、かなり小さいので無理じゃないかと思った。しかし、管理人に相談すると、実はエレベーターには隠し扉が鏡の裏にあったのだ。それを開くとかなり広くなる。上にはエレベーター内部を覗ける窓もあった。
これはスパイが隠れる場所なんだと確信した。
1989年以降(ベルリンの壁が崩壊し、ドイツが再統一されると)、マルツァーン地区はネオナチとその活動の代名詞のような場所として知られるようになり、「外国人はそこを訪れてはいけないとさえ警告された」という。 しかし、実際にはアジア系やロシア系の外国人が多く、人々も思いのほかに親切だった。無論、団地の奥の方に行けば、立ち寄ってはいけないような雰囲気もあった。明らかに中心地にいるドイツ人とは違う顔つきだ。青白いのか、真っ白なのか、堅い大きい刺青だらけの男女が無口にベビーカーを押しながらトラムに乗ってくる。
また、横浜の新興住宅地で育った自分としては、なんとなく懐かしい気分にもなった。
小学校の頃だったか、たまに学校をサボりたくなり、地下鉄で学校へ向かう途中、無性に終点に行きたくなったことがある。営団地下鉄の終点、高島平を訪れた時の胸の高鳴りを思い出した。高島平は陸の孤島とも呼ばれる。昭和の巨大団地の数々。京王多摩センター駅にも行った覚えがある。昔から終点や行き止まりが好きなんだなと思った。
ここは "住宅版 ゆりかごから墓場まで" を体現している場所だ。
ここで生まれ育った人たちの中には、一生に一度もここから出ず、ベルリンの中心地にもほとんど行かずに生涯を終える人もいるのだろうと思った。
僕にとっての本当のベルリンの姿はまさにMarzahnだと確信した。

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